I have a confession to make: While I’m quite obviously a fan of the women’s collections, men’s fashion week is often times a much more fulfilling fashion experience. Why? The shows aren’t so late, they aren’t so crowded, there isn’t so much attention paid to stuffing the front row with whatever reality starlets a publicist can find in an oversaturated fashion week. An obvious bonus is, of course, I can envision myself wearing the clothes. And let’s be honest: The boys in these shows ain’t that hard to look at either. That’s why I was more than happy to go accompany my peers at VMAN, the men’s counterpart to the aspirational high fashion magaizne Vmagazine, where I’m also the editor at large, to the collections in Milan, and make some notes on my favorite fashion moments. For the full list and descriptions, go to my slideshow on the VMAN website.
There were a few trends that we saw this season, but let me tell you some of my favorites: First, the leather suiting. As coincidence would have it, I brought my first pair of leather trousers to Milan this season (what? What mid life crisis?), and I couldn’t have been more on trend than when I wore them at mens fashion week. Leather was everywhere, even in lilac and as a suit at the Bottega Venetta show. Other trends? There was also lots of orange, reds and, much to my amusement, pimped out fur coats that looked like they had crawled out of a 1990s rap video. I’m not sure if that’s a look I can personally get into, but Gucci, Fendi and Versace all showed oversized man furs. (Versace, which I dubbed as part ‘Guys and Dolls’ and part Puff Daddy, was one of my favorite shows because, well, it was ridiculous. Men in lace teddy boxer briefs and fur coats? Only you, Donatella.) And a final trend we saw often in Milan was what the International Herald Tribune’s legendary fashion critic Suzy Menkes dubbed the ‘Moncler effect’: puffers everywhere. Calvin Klein did quilted, puffy leather sweatshirts, even. And Missoni, a label known for its colorful knits, even got in the puffy market with some vests. Speaking of Missoni, I just want to briefly say that I’m sending my love and prayers to the Missoni family in their time of personal crisis. I had dinner with Margherita Missoni, the eldest in the youngest generation of Missoni’s, when I was in Milan, and I am continually impressed with that clan’s sense of spirit, love and togetherness. If anyone can pull through something like this, it’s them.
Well suited, above, from left: A look from the Prada show, which was one of my favorites because it reminded me of a vintage Prada show; one of the blue windowpane suits at Gucci, which had some of the best tailoring of the season; a Fendi double breasted suit; one of the purple suits from Bottega Venetta’s show.
Shut the puff up, above, from left: A lovely leather jacket from the Salvador Ferragamo show; a knit puffer vest at Missoni; a fur headed sweatshirt at Emporio Armani; Thom Browne’s Scotland-meets-St. Moritz themed show, which I thought was fantastic, for Moncler
Renaissance men, above, from left: An overcoat at Dolce & Gabanna,which was covered entirely in embroidered flowers; Burberry went wild with leopard, tiger and zebra accents on their accessories, which I thought were divine; a look from the outrageous DSquared2 show; and last but not least, the men’s lace teddy and oversized fur coat, seen at the Versace show.